![]() ![]() So either way you hook them up, you'll always have 120V potential L1 to N and L2 to N and 240V potential L1 to L2. In our situation one leg of the system is the black wire (L1), and the other is the red wire (L2). To supply 240V to a device, a hot wire from each leg of the system must be present at the outlet. Then you use a normal generator extension cord. Then you wire that to an inlet (socket with prongs). ![]() So the building is supplied using two hot legs (L1,L2) which are 180° "out of phase", and the center tap (N).īecause of this, any device in the house can be powered using either 120V, 240V or both. You need to START with a competent generator interlock, which interlocks the main breaker with a back-fed breaker so both cant be on at once. This is because in US residential wiring, the house is fed from a transformer with a center tapped secondary. A 3-prong outlet doesn’t have a port for the ground and instead relies on a metal strap or harness to ground out the appliance. The bottom is the neutral line that’s dedicated to bringing power back after it passes through your appliance, and at the top is the ground. Each hot wire will have an electric potential of 120V to neutral/ground, and 240V potential to each other. In a 4-prong outlet, there is two power lines at either side of the outlet. Im no electrician, but most houses dont have 30amp 120 volt outlets do they Most are 15 amp. If you do not already have one, you can pickup an adapter to plug your RV into a 30 amp 120V outletat Camping world or Walmart. This is a common pattern in most electrical devices, and can easily be remembered with a simple poem.Īs pointed out, since the red and black wires are both hot it doesn't matter which one is connected to X or Y. The 4 prong cord on your RV is actually 2 separate 120V circuits. ![]() If you look at the terminal screws on one of these receptacles, you may notice they are different colors. ![]()
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